Almirante – Bocas

The morning revealed a lovely surprise at Axel’s hostel. You could see there was water under the decking the previous night, illuminated by a string of coloured lighting. But it wasn’t apparent that the house was built next to and on top of a picturesque mangrove swamp. A very pleasant spot to have one’s morning brew prior to farewelling the hostel.

Axel’s across-the-mangrove-swamp neighbour, Almirante.

Axel showed the way to a local cafe where I could get some breakfast, then left me to tuck in. From there it was a very short walk to the ferry terminal to catch the boat to Bocas. As I was walking, a señor called out to me that I had missed the ferry and I would need to take a water taxi instead. I thought him mistaken, or at the very least trying to drum up business for the water taxis. Unfortunately, he was entirely correct as the scheduled ferry left nearly an hour early and I had indeed missed it. Not wanting to hang around Almirante another four hours, I relented to taking a water taxi.

Water taxis, Bocas.

Isla Colón is the largest and most developed island in the Bocas del Toro archipiélago; a string of emerald gems strewn off the coastline in the Caribbean Sea. Bocas Town, or Bocas as it is better known, is the main town in the island chain and forms a hub for the other islands. I had found a hostel I liked the sound of and booked a couple of nights to see how I went.

Caribbean charm, Bocas.

After checking in, I had a wander around town to get my bearings. Bocas is situated on a spit of land jutting out from Isla Colon’s south-eastern corner. Primarily Caribbean in its roots, it exudes coastal charm by way of its pastel hued clapboard buildings and all manner of palms and other tropical plants squeezed into as many spaces as possible. Although clearly catering to the burgeoning tourist market, it still manages to have a laid back charm about it.

One of the many restaurants in Bocas.

Suitably impressed and with a range of options for day trips from Bocas, I asked if I could extend a couple of nights. Alas, the inn was full so I booked accommodation on other islands planning on making my way across the archipelago over the next few days.

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