Dominical – Uvita

I slept like a baby listening to the waves crashing on the beach over the road from the hostel so woke fresh to start the new day. This little hostel harks back to days when travel was more basic. No doors, only curtains. Open air living spaces. Sand everywhere. And the most basis of basic of amenities. Its reto charm was what made it. Plus it’s hippy, surfer Italian ex-pat owner who was more about collective positive energy than collecting colones.

It would have been nice to spend a bit more time in drowsy Dominical, but I had a bus to catch. After checking out the beach, I found where the bus left from, then wandered down the beachfront road to grab a coffee to take with me.

As I was first in the bus, I had prime position in front to take in the views. And they were worth taking in. The road hugged the coastline pretty much the whole way to Uvita, affording numerous glimpses of turquoise water gently crashing on cinnamon-hued beaches. All surrounded by verdant jungle. I knew I would probably have to walk from where the bus dropped me off to my hostel, but it ended up being much further than I anticipated in the searing midday sun. So I was well and truly happy when I reached my destination.

I couldn’t check in until 2pm so left my pack at reception and walked to the national park at the end of the road. Parque Nacional Marino Ballena is primarily a marine reserve which takes in adjoining beaches and their abutting mangrove forests. Its most famous drawcard is the ‘Whale’s Tail’ – a rocky headland connected to a tidal sandbar which when exposed, looks remarkably like a whale tail from above. As an added bonus, migrating humpback whales regularly promenade these shores twice a year in season. It’s as if the ‘Whale’s Tail’ is on their bucket list as well.

I started walking on the beach as I couldn’t find the trailhead for the jungle trail which ran alongside. After reaching the ‘Whale’s Tail’, I found the observation deck which was also an entry point to the trail. The tide hadn’t fully gone out at this stage, so the waves were meeting and crashing in the middle of the sandbar. Now I had found the trail, I followed it for it’s northern duration up to the Rio Uvita. This route was much cooler; shaded by a dense canopy as it wound its way through the jungle. All the time, the crashing of the waves could be clearly heard through the foliage.

I popped out at Rio Uvita where an hombre was fishing with his son. It was a picturesque lagoon and I dearly wanted to take a dip, however, the señor was most adamant it wasn’t safe due to the presence of crocodiles. I had to settle for a swim in the rip-prone sea instead which prevented me from going too far in. Still it was refreshing and prepared me for the walk back along the beach.

By the time I returned to the ‘Whale’s Tail, the tide was at its lowest and the sandbar was fully exposed. I walked its length to the little rocky headland so I could take some photos. It was certainly pretty with the jungle-clad hills in the background and the little rockpools which had formed on the headland.

Now I knew where the trail was, I took the southern route back out. This trail passed a little lagoon, fringed with drooping vegetation. As this was prime croc country, I quickly took my photo and moved on. It was a pretty little trail which wound its way through the jungle to spit its venturers back out on the beach further down. It was then a matter of following the beach and finally a dirt track back to the entrance.

By now I was well and truly ready for a soothing cerveza. I found a little restaurant for a beer and something to eat while waiting for the temperature to drop a little before walking back to my hostel in the gathering dusk.