I didn’t sleep well so when my alarm went off at 5am, I groggily dragged myself out of bed to get ready for my canal canoe tour. I waited for my guide at the designated spot and found I was being palmed off to another tour as the other tourists I was with were on a French speaking one. I walked down to the National Park boat dock and waited, hoping someone would come by and pick me up. Eventually, a canoe with guide and a German couple quietly slid into the park boat dock and I climbed aboard.
The early morning had a freshness that took the edge off the humidity as we quietly glided across the main lagoon of Tortuguero. Other canoes, kayaks and electric powered boats dotted the edge of the lagoon and an awed hush was respected by all. The setting had a sense of surrealism about it as we gently paddled past waders investigating rafts of waterlilies and other water birds flittering above and around us.
Our guide quietly paddled alongside the bank, pointing out birds, iguanas, monkeys, sloths and caimans. I was glad to have taken the canoe instead of a single kayak as it was much easier to take photos from. At this hour of the day, the jungle was teaming with life and wonderful photo opportunities were abundant.
We paddled into little streams where one had to duck to avoid the low-growing vegetation. It was in one of these streams that we saw dozens of boat-billed heron going through their mating rituals oblivious to our presence.
Caimans could be sighted resting with their heads out of the water or swimming just under the surface. Capuchin and howler monkeys plied their theatrics high in the canopy. And sloths, bless them, slept through the lot.
Our tour came to an end and I was dropped back at the National Park boat dock. I still had an hour until check out from my hostel so decided to get some breakfast first. On the way back to the hostel, I organised the boat I would need to leave Tortuguero. I still had another hour and a half before my boat left so thought I’d check out the jungle walk in the National Park.
The only jaguar one is likely to see on the Jaguar Trail is the cartoon one on the notice board advising what to do if you do actually encounter one. Still it is a pretty jungle walk heading from the lagoon to the beach and following the coast for a couple of kms. At intervals, there are access points to the beach, which I thought was handy if one did encounter a jaguar. Evidently, that is what you are supposed to do – head to the high tide mark. One can only assume body surfing is not high on a jaguar’s bucket list. Whilst not eyeballing any jaguars, there were the usual parade of sloths, monkeys and iguanas to keep one amused during one’s wander.
It was time to leave this lively little village behind and head west. I found my boat and took my leave of Tortuguero. Zooming off towards La Pavona, most of the passengers didn’t have their life jackets on; myself included. This unfortunately drew the attention of a passing by Coast Guard boat manned with four armed, balaclava clad officers. Our boat was stopped and the captain handed over paperwork. Papers were examined, photographs taken and we were all given a stern talking to. I didn’t think it appropriate to take a photo as I wasn’t sure if I might be up for some sort of fine for not wearing a life jacket so didn’t want to push my luck. Eventually, we were allowed to continue our passage. We drove through serpentine waterways, dodging debris at intervals, until we reached La Pavona.
I was planning on catching a bus from La Pavona to Cariari, but was approached by a colectivo driver who offered a fair price and was leaving then. We drove through pretty farmland interspersed with jungle; watched by fat cattle contentedly enjoying a mid-afternoon graze. In Cariari, I caught a bus to Puerto Viajo de Sarapiqui, the other Costa Rican Puerto Viajo. I can now say I have been to both! I couldn’t book any accommodation on line for there so just decided to wing it like I normally would in Central America. Unfortunately, the ‘cheap’ accommodation I was directed to was still more than I would have like to have paid and was pretty disgusting. On opening the door, I was hit by a wall of insect spray which made me gasp for breathe. Fortunately, with the door and window open I was able to air it out a bit. It was dark and I was tired so I took it.
Wild Woman Wandering 