I went with Maria into Peurto Viajo after breakfast to cash up at the ATM and get some bug spray. I’m trying to use my credit card as much as possible as the ATM fees are astronomical. But some things you have to pay for by cash. There doesn’t seem to be any rhyme or reason behind fees – could just be to do with individual banks, but fees have been as much as 9%. I also needed to get some bug spray. I took a pump pack of Rid from Australia as I couldn’t take an aerosol can on the plane, but it quickly clogged and stopped working despite my best efforts. A massive pity as the aerosol can I replaced it with cost an eye-watering AUD21!! If I end up with any mozzie-born nasties after marinating in this gold-plated elixir, I’m going to be mighty pissed.
Back at the hostel, I rented a pushbike for USD7. Given I haven’t cycled outside of the gym for several years, it was a rocky start. But I eventually wobbled my way down the road back towards Puerto Viajo. The bike was very basic with no gears and back brakes but it did the job of getting me along the coast quicker than I could walk. I will hire a motorbike at some stage, but they are quite expensive to rent.
After congratulating myself on riding the three kms back to Puerto Viajo without coming a cropper, I decided to find a beachside bar for lunch and a cerveza. Puerto Pirate certainly ticked that box. With a funky decor and situated right on the beach, it was just the place to partake of tasty honey and lime shrimp tacos and watch the world pass.
Suitably refreshed, I jumped back on my deadly treadly (aptly named if you saw my cycling…) and headed back down the coast. I passed my hostel and the Jaguar Refuge Centre and was then in new territory. I wanted to check into the beaches en route and turned into a side street indicating Playa Uva. Riding down a rutted, narrow track, I eventually came to what was signposted as Sloth Point and parked the bike up. Obviously a popular swimming spot, the place was quite crowded so I wandered further up the beach to find a quiet spot to strip off and jump in the surf.
On the way back to my bike, I saw a sloth in the trees in the jungle next to the beach. They are such magnificent little creatures. So slow moving due to their extremely low metabolism, it’s like they are doing yoga in the trees and are a joy to watch.
On the bike again and I continued following the coastal track, passing more little beaches until I came to a river. From behind, a guy on a heavy duty beach bike passed me and headed over the river; continuing on the other side. There was no way my little bike was going to repeat those antics, so I pushed it over the hard sand and the narrowest part of the river crossing. Once there, I was able to find a continuation of the track, albeit a very rough, rutted one with tree roots playing havoc with the surface. This is was able to follow until I came to another river. Alas, this one was unpassable.
Reluctantly, I turned around and followed the track back to the main road. I was hoping to continue on to Manzanilla, however, it was getting late in the day and these roads are not best for night riding. It only took me about an hour to return to the hostel, by which time it was just on dark.
Bike parked up and it was time for a well earned cocktail in the hostel restaurant. Time also to work out where I was going next. I had decided I would start at the southern Caribbean side of Costa Rica and make my way around the country from that point. Decision made, I booked the next couple of nights on-line in Cahuita and called it a night.
Wild Woman Wandering 